Iceland Highlands Guide

What Are the Highlands

Iceland's Highlands are the vast, uninhabited interior of the island -- a sprawling expanse of volcanic deserts, glacial rivers, and colorful rhyolite mountains that covers roughly 40 percent of the country. Almost no one lives here. There are no towns, no petrol stations, no shops, and no permanent roads in the conventional sense. This is one of the last great empty spaces in Europe, and it looks like nothing else on Earth.

The landscape ranges from jet-black lava deserts where nothing grows to rainbow-streaked mountain ridges painted in ochre, pink, green, and purple by centuries of geothermal activity. Glacial rivers carve through the terrain without bridges, hot springs steam in isolated valleys, and vast ice caps dominate the horizon. The sense of scale is difficult to convey -- you can drive for hours without seeing another vehicle or any sign of human habitation.

Access to the Highlands is restricted to a network of F-roads (fjallvegir, or mountain roads) that are only open for a few months each summer. These unpaved tracks range from rough gravel to boulder-strewn paths requiring river crossings. A 4x4 vehicle is legally required, and preparation is not optional -- it is the difference between an extraordinary adventure and a dangerous situation. Off-road driving outside of marked tracks is strictly illegal everywhere in Iceland, as the fragile highland moss and soil can take decades to recover from tire damage.

For those willing to put in the planning, the Highlands reward with landscapes that feel genuinely otherworldly. This is Iceland at its most raw and unfiltered, far removed from the tour buses and paved viewpoints of the Ring Road. It is the Iceland that Icelanders themselves regard with a mixture of pride and deep respect.

When to Visit

The Highland season is brutally short. Most F-roads open between mid-June and early July and close again in September or early October, depending on snow melt, river levels, and early winter weather. The exact opening dates vary every year, and some roads may not open at all in years with heavy snow. There is no fixed schedule -- nature decides.

Late June and early July offer the longest daylight hours and the excitement of freshly opened roads, but river levels can be high as glacial melt peaks in the warmth of midsummer. This is also when some F-roads may still have snow patches or soft ground that makes driving more difficult. If you visit in late June, be prepared for the possibility that your intended route may not yet be open.

August is generally considered the most reliable month for Highland travel. By then, most F-roads have been open for several weeks, river levels tend to be lower than in early summer when glacial melt peaks, and the weather is as stable as it ever gets in Iceland's interior. That said, "stable" is relative. Temperatures can drop below freezing at night even in August, and sudden storms can bring rain, wind, and near-zero visibility with little warning.

Before any Highland trip, check road.is for the current status of every F-road on your route. Roads are marked as open, closed, or impassable, and the status can change daily. The Icelandic weather service at vedur.is provides forecasts for highland areas. Never assume a road is open because it was open last week or because someone posted about it online.

Getting There

All Highland routes require a 4x4 vehicle. This is not a suggestion -- it is Icelandic law. Driving a 2WD vehicle on an F-road is illegal, and rental insurance policies universally exclude coverage for 2WD vehicles on F-roads. If you damage a regular car on a highland track, you pay for everything. The roads themselves quickly make it obvious why: deep gravel, sharp rocks, steep inclines, and unbridged river crossings are standard.

River crossings are the most serious hazard on Highland roads. Glacial rivers can rise dramatically within hours due to rain or warm weather melting ice upstream. The technique for crossing is specific: enter slowly, maintain steady momentum, stay in low gear, and aim for the widest, shallowest point of the crossing. Never cross a river you cannot wade first. If in doubt, wait -- another vehicle may arrive, or the river may drop overnight.

Fuel planning is critical. There are no petrol stations in the Highland interior. You must carry enough fuel for your entire route, plus a substantial reserve. Calculate your vehicle's consumption at highland driving speeds (typically 30-40 km/h on rough terrain) and add at least 30 percent as a safety margin. Carrying a spare fuel can is standard practice for longer routes like Sprengisandur.

If driving yourself feels too daunting, organized tours are available. Several Icelandic operators run Highland tours in modified super jeeps and buses, covering Landmannalaugar, Askja, and the main highland routes. These range from day trips to multi-day expeditions and remove the burden of vehicle preparation and river crossing anxiety. In summer, scheduled highland buses also connect key destinations like Landmannalaugar and Hveravellir, allowing hikers to reach trailheads without needing their own vehicle.

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar is the most visited destination in the Highlands, and it earns that popularity honestly. Nestled in a valley at the edge of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, it is surrounded by rhyolite mountains painted in extraordinary colors -- rust red, sulfur yellow, moss green, lilac purple, and obsidian black, all streaked and layered across the slopes. The effect is surreal, as if someone poured watercolors over the landscape.

At the base of these mountains sits a natural hot spring where warm geothermal water mixes with a cold stream. After hours of driving rough F-roads, soaking in this open-air pool with rainbow mountains rising on all sides is one of the great Highland experiences. The spring is free to use and accessible to everyone, though it can get busy on peak summer weekends.

Landmannalaugar is also the starting point for the Laugavegur trail, widely considered the best multi-day hike in Iceland. The 55-kilometre route runs south to Thorsmork over four days, passing through an astonishing variety of terrain: steaming vents, obsidian fields, glacial valleys, and river crossings. Hut accommodation must be booked well in advance through the Iceland Touring Association.

The main driving routes to Landmannalaugar are F225 from the west and F208 from the south. F225 is generally considered the easier approach, with fewer river crossings. A day trip from Reykjavik is possible in summer -- the drive takes roughly three to four hours each way -- but starting early is essential. A campsite and warden hut at Landmannalaugar allow overnight stays for those who want more time to explore the surrounding trails.

Askja & Herdubreid

Askja is a vast volcanic caldera deep in the eastern Highlands, accessible via the long and lonely F88 road from the north. Inside the caldera sits Oskjuvatn, one of Iceland's deepest lakes, and the smaller Viti crater -- a vivid turquoise geothermal lake where visitors can bathe in warm, sulfurous water. The walk from the car park to Viti takes about 30 minutes across a stark moonscape of volcanic ash and pumice.

Herdubreid, known as the "Queen of Icelandic Mountains," rises from the surrounding desert like a flat-topped fortress. This table mountain was formed by volcanic eruptions beneath a glacier during the last ice age, giving it a distinctive steep-sided profile visible from great distances across the highland plateau. It is one of Iceland's most iconic landmarks and was long considered impossible to climb, though experienced mountaineers now summit it regularly.

The area around Askja has deep historical significance. In 1875, a massive eruption from the Askja system deposited ash across eastern Iceland, triggering a wave of emigration to North America. More recently, NASA astronauts trained near Askja in the 1960s because the volcanic terrain closely resembles the lunar surface. The landscape still has that quality -- standing at the rim of the caldera, it is easy to believe you have left Earth entirely.

The Dreki huts, run by the Iceland Touring Association, provide basic accommodation near Askja and serve as a base for exploring the area. The drive to Askja via F88 is long and remote -- roughly 100 kilometres of highland track from the Ring Road -- and requires a capable 4x4 with high clearance. River crossings on F88 can be challenging, particularly early in summer. This is not a place for inexperienced highland drivers.

Sprengisandur & Kjolur Routes

Two main routes cross Iceland's Highland interior from south to north: Sprengisandur (F26) and Kjolur (F35). Both offer extraordinary landscapes but differ significantly in difficulty and character. These routes have been used for centuries -- medieval Icelanders crossed the interior on horseback to travel between regions -- and driving either one today is among the most memorable experiences available in Iceland, crossing vast empty spaces that feel more like another planet than part of Europe.

Sprengisandur (F26) is the more remote and challenging of the two. It runs between Hofsjokull and Vatnajokull glaciers through some of the most desolate terrain in Iceland -- an immense black sand desert where the horizon is flat in every direction. River crossings on Sprengisandur can be serious, particularly the Tungna river system. This route demands a well-prepared 4x4, extra fuel, and genuine self-sufficiency. The reward is complete solitude and landscapes of austere, humbling beauty.

Kjolur (F35) follows a corridor between Hofsjokull and Langjokull glaciers and is widely considered the easier of the two highland routes. It has no major river crossings and the road surface, while still rough, is better maintained than Sprengisandur. The highlight of Kjolur is Hveravellir, a geothermal area roughly midway along the route with a natural hot pool, steaming fumaroles, and a small hut for overnight stays. Hveravellir is one of the most atmospheric spots in all of Iceland.

Both routes connect the south of Iceland to the north, offering an alternative to the Ring Road for those with the vehicle and the nerve. Kjolur connects Gullfoss in the south to Blonduos in the north. Sprengisandur runs from near Hrauneyjar in the south to Godaland and eventually Akureyri in the north. Allow a full day for either crossing, and never attempt them without checking current road conditions.

Safety & Vehicle Requirements

Highland travel in Iceland demands respect and honest self-assessment. A 4x4 vehicle is mandatory on all F-roads by law, and for good reason. The terrain is punishing: deep gravel, sharp volcanic rock, steep gradients, and unbridged river crossings that can range from ankle-deep trickles to waist-deep glacial torrents depending on weather and time of day. If you have never driven off-road before, the Highlands are not the place to learn. Consider a guided tour for your first visit.

When renting a vehicle, ensure it is specifically rated for F-road and highland driving. Rental companies offering Highland-capable vehicles include modified Land Cruisers, Defenders, and Dacia Dusters with adequate clearance. Check that your rental agreement explicitly covers F-road travel and ask about gravel protection and sand and ash insurance, which are important add-ons for highland driving.

River crossing technique matters. Approach every crossing on foot first to gauge depth and current. Cross at the widest point where the water is shallowest. Enter slowly, engage low gear, and maintain steady forward momentum without stopping. Never cross a river that is deeper than the wheel hubs of your vehicle. Glacial rivers are coldest and lowest in the morning and can rise significantly by afternoon as the day's warmth melts upstream ice.

Weather in the Highlands can deteriorate rapidly, even in summer. Temperatures regularly drop below freezing at night, and storms can bring rain, sleet, or even snow in July and August. Visibility can go from clear skies to near-zero in strong wind-driven rain or volcanic dust storms. Always carry warm layers, waterproof clothing, and be prepared to wait out bad weather rather than push through it.

Communication is severely limited in the interior. Mobile phone signal is absent across most of the Highlands. Before departing, register your travel plan with safetravel.is so that rescue services know your intended route and timeline. Consider renting a satellite phone or personal locator beacon for remote trips. Always carry extra fuel, food, and water beyond what you think you will need. Travel in convoy with another vehicle whenever possible.

Essential Gear

Packing for the Highlands goes beyond normal Iceland travel preparation. Even in summer, conditions in the interior can resemble winter at lower altitudes. Warm layers are essential -- bring thermal base layers, fleece or down mid-layers, and a windproof, waterproof outer shell. Temperatures can swing from pleasant sunshine to near-freezing rain within hours, so layering is the only strategy that works.

Waterproof everything. Your jacket, trousers, boots, and bag covers all need to be genuinely waterproof, not just water-resistant. Highland rain and river spray will find any weakness in your gear. Proper hiking boots with ankle support and good grip are non-negotiable -- the terrain ranges from loose scree to wet rock to muddy river banks. Trail shoes are not sufficient for most highland hiking.

Navigation requires redundancy. Do not rely solely on your phone for maps and GPS in the Highlands. Mobile signal is absent, batteries drain quickly in cold weather, and screens become unreadable in rain. Carry a physical map of the Highland region -- the 1:500,000 touring map covering the interior is widely available in Reykjavik bookshops. Download offline maps to your phone as a backup, and if you have a dedicated GPS unit, bring it. Know how to read a map and use a compass as a last resort.

Emergency supplies should include a comprehensive first aid kit, a spare tire and the tools to change it, a tow rope, extra fuel in approved containers, at least two days of emergency food and water, a headlamp with spare batteries, and fire-starting materials. A satellite communicator or personal locator beacon is strongly recommended for anyone venturing beyond the most popular highland destinations. These items are not for paranoid over-preparers -- they are for anyone who takes the Highlands seriously.