Réttir — The Icelandic Sheep Roundup

Sheep in Iceland — A Living Ancient Tradition

Iceland has more sheep than people. With a human population of roughly 380,000 and a sheep population exceeding 800,000, the ratio has remained roughly consistent for centuries. Icelandic sheep are a pure breed descended directly from the animals brought by Norse settlers in the 9th century — one of the oldest and least crossbred sheep breeds in the world.

Each spring, around May, farmers release their flocks into the highlands. The sheep roam freely across the communal interior, fattening on highland grasses and herbs through the long summer days. They are marked with ear tags and owner's marks cut into the ears, a system that allows each farmer to identify their animals even after months of free range.

The Icelandic sheep's isolation on the island has kept the breed free of many diseases common in mainland European flocks. They are hardy, adaptable, and remarkably self-sufficient. Icelandic lamb is prized for its flavour, which comes partly from the wild herbs and grasses the animals eat during their summer on the highland. This free-range upbringing is a central part of what makes Icelandic lamb so distinctive.

The Roundup (Réttir)

The réttir typically takes place in September and early October, before the first serious snowfall closes the highland passes. Farmers organize into groups covering designated areas of highland, driving the sheep gradually downhill toward collecting points. Riders on Icelandic horses, dogs, and walkers on foot all participate.

Once gathered, the sheep are driven into a large circular pen called a rétt. The rétt is divided into wedge-shaped sections like a pie, each section belonging to a different farm. Farmers and their families then sort through the flock, identifying their own animals by ear marks and driving them into their farm's section. This sorting process — carried out by hand, often in crowded, noisy conditions — is both highly skilled and intensely social.

The réttir is a community event in the fullest sense. Neighbours who might rarely see each other during the rest of the year come together for the roundup. Food is shared, stories are told, and the work of sorting hundreds of sheep becomes the occasion for renewing social bonds. In many farming communities, the réttir is the social highlight of the year.

The Icelandic Horse

The réttir cannot be understood without the Icelandic horse. Brought to Iceland by Norse settlers in the 9th century and kept in strict genetic isolation since — no horse has been permitted into Iceland for over 900 years — the Icelandic horse is a unique breed of extraordinary character.

Icelandic horses are small by horse standards but massively strong relative to their size. They are famous for a fifth gait, the tölt, a smooth four-beat running walk that allows riders to cover rough terrain at speed without the jolting of a trot. In the highlands during réttir, this gait is invaluable — the horses move across lava fields, heather, and river crossings with a sure-footedness that larger breeds cannot match.

Icelandic horses are deeply embedded in the national identity. They appear in the sagas, in medieval law codes, and in everyday life. Horse shows and competitions in the tölt and flying pace (another unique gait) are held throughout summer. Riding tours using Icelandic horses are available across the country, and a riding trip during réttir season offers the closest most visitors will get to participating in this ancient tradition.

Eiderdown — Another Living Farming Tradition

The réttir is Iceland's most visible farming tradition, but it is not the only one that connects modern Icelanders to their Norse roots. Eiderdown harvesting is another practice unchanged in its essentials since the settlement period.

Eider ducks nest on the ground across Iceland's coastal areas, lining their nests with exceptionally soft breast feathers — eiderdown — which provides insulation of unmatched quality. Farmers who have hosted eider colonies for generations carefully collect the down from the nests after the chicks have fledged. This requires removing the down gently, leaving the nest structure intact, and timing the collection precisely. In return, the farmers protect the nesting sites from disturbance and predators throughout the breeding season.

Icelandic eiderdown is among the most expensive natural materials in the world, used in premium duvets and sleeping bags. The sustainable harvest depends entirely on the ducks returning to the same sites year after year — which they do, because the nesting areas are safe. This mutualism between farmer and wild bird, maintained across generations, is a remarkable example of traditional ecological knowledge.

How to Experience Réttir

The réttir season runs from early September through mid-October, varying by region and weather. Highland areas in the north, east, and south each hold their roundups at slightly different times. Tourist offices in farming regions can provide information on local roundup dates.

Some farms welcome visitors to observe or participate in the réttir. Participation typically means helping with the sorting in the rétt pen — physically demanding, smelly, and enormously fun. Riding tours during réttir season allow visitors to join the gathering on horseback. These must be arranged in advance through equestrian tour operators.

The town of Hvolsvöllur in south Iceland and the Skagafjörður region in the north are among the best areas for visitors interested in traditional horse culture and réttir participation.

• Best time: September–October
• Best regions: Skagafjörður (north), Þórsmörk area (south), East Iceland highlands
• Riding tours: Book in advance through Icelandic equestrian operators
• Observation: Contact local tourist information offices for roundup dates
• Combine with: Icelandic horse shows (held throughout summer), National Museum farming exhibits