🇮🇸 What Locals Want Tourists to Know
The Hard Truth About Driving in Iceland
Iceland isn't like driving at home. Our weather changes in minutes, our roads can be challenging, and help can be hours away. This is especially true on F-roads, where you're deep in the highlands with no cell coverage and rivers between you and civilization. Locals respect these conditions - tourists often don't, and that's when accidents happen.
This guide gives you the same advice we give our own family members.
📡 Live F-Road Status — Check Before You Drive
road.is — Official road condition map with live F-road open/closed status. Updated constantly.
Call 1777 — Road information hotline with English-speaking operators (available 24/7 June-August).
vedur.is — Icelandic Met Office for highland weather forecasts.
🏔 F-Roads — The Complete Highland Guide
F-Road Requirements
F-Road Quick Comparison
F35 Kjölur
The highland highway. Well-maintained gravel road between Gullfoss and Akureyri, passing Hveravellir hot spring. No river crossings required. 170 km.
F550 Kaldidalur
Shortest highland route and easiest F-road. Valley between Langjökull and Ok glaciers, connecting Þingvellir to Húsafell. No river fords. 37 km.
F208/F225 Landmannalaugar
Colorful rhyolite mountains and a natural hot spring at the end. River crossings on F208 from the north. F225 from the south is slightly easier. 40-70 km.
F26 Sprengisandur
The longest highland crossing — 200 km of black volcanic desert between Vatnajökull and Hofsjökull. Multiple river crossings. True wilderness. Allow a full day.
F88 Askja
Remote volcanic caldera with the milky-blue Víti crater lake. Requires fording the Lindaá river (can be deep). 95 km from Route 1. Allow a full day.
F249 Þórsmörk
Glacier valley surrounded by three glaciers. Requires crossing the wide, braided Krossá river — one of Iceland's most notorious fords. 30 km. Super jeep recommended.
F578 Arnarvatnsvegur
Remote lake district with hundreds of trout-filled lakes. Very few other travelers. Connects Kaldidalur to the Westfjords via the highland interior. 70 km.
Detailed F-Road Guide
F35 Kjölur — The Highland Highway
+Route Overview
- Distance: 170 km (Gullfoss to Blönduós junction)
- Typical opening: Late June (sometimes mid-June)
- River crossings: None required (all bridged)
- Vehicle requirement: 4WD required by all rental companies. Standard SUV is fine.
- Difficulty: Easy — well-maintained gravel road, comparable to a normal gravel road
- Time needed: 3-4 hours driving, 5-7 hours with stops
Highlights
- Hveravellir: Highland geothermal area with a natural hot pool — the best stop on the route
- Kerlingarfjöll: Side road to stunning geothermal mountains (adds 1-2 hours)
- Views of Langjökull and Hofsjökull: Iceland's second and third largest glaciers flanking the road
F550 Kaldidalur — Easiest Highland Route
+Route Overview
- Distance: 37 km (Þingvellir to Húsafell area)
- Typical opening: Early June (often the first F-road to open)
- River crossings: None
- Vehicle requirement: 4WD required by all rental companies. Any small SUV works.
- Difficulty: Easy — short, no fords, moderate gravel surface
- Time needed: 45 minutes driving, 1.5-2 hours with stops
Highlights
- Langjökull glacier: Massive ice cap visible right beside the road
- Ok volcano: The small glacier that was the first in Iceland to lose its ice sheet (declared dead in 2014)
- Connects to Víðgelmir lava cave and Hraunfossar waterfalls near Húsafell
F208/F225 Landmannalaugar — Rainbow Mountains
+Route Overview
- Distance: ~40 km from south (F225), ~70 km from north (F208)
- Typical opening: Late June to early July
- River crossings: F208 from the north has multiple river crossings. F225 from the south has fewer but ends with a river ford at the campsite entrance.
- Vehicle requirement: 4WD required by rental companies. Higher clearance recommended for F208.
- Difficulty: Moderate — the final river crossing at Landmannalaugar can be tricky when water is high
- Time needed: 2-3 hours driving from south, 3-5 hours from north. Plan a full day.
Highlights
- Rhyolite mountains: Extraordinary colors — pink, yellow, green, blue minerals in the hillsides
- Natural hot spring: Soak in the geothermal river at the campsite after the drive
- Laugavegur trailhead: Starting point for Iceland's most famous multi-day hike
F26 Sprengisandur — The Great Desert Crossing
+Route Overview
- Distance: ~200 km (south to north through the interior)
- Typical opening: Early to mid-July (one of the last to open)
- River crossings: Multiple, including some that can be deep and challenging
- Vehicle requirement: Strong 4WD with good clearance. Modified vehicles recommended.
- Difficulty: Challenging — long distance, river crossings, remote, no services whatsoever
- Time needed: 6-10 hours driving. Plan a full day and leave early.
Highlights
- Nýidalur hut: Highland hut at the midpoint — the only shelter on the route
- Views of Vatnajökull and Hofsjökull: Iceland's two largest ice caps
- Total isolation: This is the emptiest road in Iceland — you may not see another car for hours
F88 Askja — Volcanic Caldera Route
+Route Overview
- Distance: ~95 km from Route 1 to Askja caldera
- Typical opening: Late June to early July
- River crossings: The Lindaá river crossing is the main challenge — can be thigh-deep. Additional smaller fords.
- Vehicle requirement: Strong 4WD with good clearance essential. Some crossings require modified vehicles in high water.
- Difficulty: Challenging — remote, significant river crossing, rough volcanic terrain
- Time needed: 4-6 hours driving round trip. Plan a full day from the north.
Highlights
- Askja caldera: Massive volcanic caldera with a lake (Öskjuvatn) that is Iceland's deepest
- Víti crater: Milky-blue warm crater lake you can bathe in (when conditions allow)
- Herðubreið: The "Queen of Icelandic Mountains" visible along the route
- Holuhraun lava field: Fresh lava from the 2014-15 eruption
F249 Þórsmörk — The Glacier Valley
+Route Overview
- Distance: ~30 km from Route 1
- Typical opening: Mid-June
- River crossings: The Krossá river is one of Iceland's most dangerous fords — wide, braided, glacial, with a shifting bottom. Multiple crossings required.
- Vehicle requirement: Super jeep or heavily modified 4WD only. Standard rental SUVs are not adequate.
- Difficulty: Challenging — the Krossá river crossings are considered among the most difficult in Iceland
- Time needed: 1-2 hours driving (when river is passable). Allow the full day.
Highlights
- Þórsmörk valley: Lush green valley protected by three glaciers — Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull, and Tindfjallajökull
- Hiking paradise: Excellent day hikes with views of glaciers, volcanoes, and canyons
- Laugavegur trail endpoint: The famous multi-day hike from Landmannalaugar ends here
📅 F-Road Opening Dates At-a-Glance
Typical opening windows based on recent years. Actual dates shift annually based on snow and weather — always check road.is for current status.
🌊 River Crossing Guide
River Crossings Kill People Every Year
Iceland's glacial rivers are not like rivers at home. They are cold (1-5°C), fast, silty (you can't see the bottom), and their depth changes by the hour as glacial melt fluctuates. Vehicles have been swept downstream. People have drowned. Never take a river crossing casually.
No insurance covers water damage. No rental company in Iceland offers insurance for river crossing damage — it is always excluded. If water enters your engine or damages the undercarriage, you pay the full repair cost, which can easily exceed $10,000.
Before Crossing — Assessment Protocol
- Stop and assess: Get out of the car. Watch the river for several minutes. Look for the widest section — wider usually means shallower.
- Walk the crossing: If possible, wade in wearing waterproof boots to check depth, current strength, and bottom surface. Use a hiking pole for balance.
- Check the bottom: Sand and gravel are good. Large boulders mean the river may be too deep or powerful elsewhere.
- Time of day matters: Glacial rivers are lowest in the morning (4-8 AM) before the sun warms the glacier. They peak in the afternoon (2-6 PM). Cross early.
- Wait for another vehicle: Let them cross first to gauge depth, or cross together so someone can help if you get stuck.
During the Crossing — Driving Technique
- Engage low-range 4WD before entering the water (not while in the river)
- Drive steady at 5 km/h: Fast enough to create a bow wave in front of you, slow enough to maintain control
- Angle slightly upstream: Face the current at a slight angle to prevent water pushing into the side of your vehicle
- Maintain a bow wave: The small wave in front of your vehicle pushes water away from the engine bay — if water rises above the bonnet, you're going too fast or too deep
- Never shift gears mid-crossing: Changing gears can stall the engine. Select 2nd gear low-range before entering.
- If the engine stalls: Do NOT try to restart immediately — water may enter the engine. Wait for help.
Absolute Rules
- Water must not exceed half your tire height — if it does, turn back
- You must be able to see the riverbed or have confirmed depth by wading — if the water is too murky and fast, don't cross
- No fast-moving water above the axle — current plus depth is what sweeps vehicles
- If in doubt, don't cross. Turn back. No destination is worth your life.
🚦 Basic Traffic Rules (Don't Assume)
Speed Limits
Local Reality: Speed cameras are everywhere, and fines are expensive (20,000-70,000 ISK / $150-500). Locals drive at or below speed limits.
🔑 Car Rental - What You Actually Need
2WD — Budget Choice
- Ring Road (Route 1) in summer
- Golden Circle and main tourist routes
- May-September with good weather
- Budget-conscious, paved roads only
4WD — Required for Highlands
- F-roads (required by every rental company)
- Winter driving (Oct-Apr)
- Westfjords in winter
- Landmannalaugar, Thorsmork access
- Any unpaved mountain roads
💰 Rental Tips from Locals
- Insurance is expensive but essential — Iceland's roads are harsh on vehicles
- Sand/ash protection — worth it near active volcanoes
- Pick up at Keflavik — often cheapest option
- Document existing damage — take photos and video before driving off
- Skip GPS rental — your phone with offline maps works fine
- Check tire tread — demand replacement if worn
Roads Unlike Anywhere Else
Iceland's roads wind through landscapes that feel otherworldly -- from coastal cliffs to highland deserts. Even on paved Route 1, conditions can change dramatically within minutes. Understanding the terrain and weather is essential for a safe and enjoyable driving experience.
❄️ Winter Driving Survival
🧊 Winter Reality in Iceland
Winter driving in Iceland is extreme. Black ice, blizzards, and winds up to 40+ m/s during storms are possible. Many locals switch to studded tires and some barely drive in winter.
❄️ Winter Equipment
Essential Winter Gear:
- Winter tires: Required by law Nov 1 - Apr 14 (minimum 4mm tread depth)
- Studded tires: Recommended (Nov-Apr), better than winter tires
- Ice scraper and brush
- Emergency kit: Food, water, warm clothes, blanket
- Tow rope
- Shovel (some rentals include)
Winter Driving Techniques:
- Drive slower: Even locals drive 50-60 km/h in winter
- Increase following distance: 3-4 times normal
- Gentle inputs: Smooth steering, gradual braking
- If you skid: Steer into the skid, don't brake hard
🌨️ Winter Weather Hazards
- Black ice: Invisible, often on bridges and shaded areas
- Whiteout conditions: Can't see 5 meters ahead
- Crosswinds: Can blow cars off road, especially on bridges
- Sudden weather changes: Clear to blizzard in minutes
⛽ Fuel Strategy (Critical for Safety)
The Half-Tank Rule
⛽ Fuel Station Reality
🕐 Station Hours That Can Strand You
- Urban areas: Usually 24/7 or until 23:30
- Rural areas: Often close at 18:00-20:00
- Remote areas: May only have unmanned pumps
- Sundays: Many close early or all day
Local Rule: Fill up when tank hits 1/2, not 1/4 like at home.
💳 Payment Methods
- Credit cards with PIN: Essential for unmanned stations
- Prepaid fuel cards: Available at staffed stations
- Cash not accepted at most modern pumps
- Foreign cards: Usually work but test early in trip
🌤️ Weather and Road Conditions
📱 Essential Apps and Websites
- road.is: Official road conditions (check daily)
- vedur.is: Icelandic weather service
- SafeTravel app: Emergency features, weather alerts
- 112 Iceland app: Emergency location sharing
- Windy.com: Detailed wind forecasts
🚨 When NOT to Drive
Red Alert Conditions (Stay Put):
- Orange/Red weather warnings from vedur.is
- Wind speeds 20+ m/s (especially with high vehicle)
- Blizzard conditions with near-zero visibility
- Ice storms - roads become skating rinks
- Road closures on road.is
Local Truth: It's better to lose a day than lose your life. Weather passes quickly in Iceland.
⚠️ Road Hazards Tourists Don't Expect
Sheep on Roads
Everywhere in summer, especially rural areas. They dart across without warning. Slow down at dawn and dusk.
Extreme Wind
25+ m/s gusts blow cars off roads. Worst on bridges, coastal roads, and mountain passes. Wind can rip car doors off hinges.
Gravel Roads
Loose stones crack windshields. Slow down when passing oncoming vehicles. Potholes and sharp curves are often unmarked.
Single-Lane Bridges
Common on Route 1. The car that arrives first has right of way. Pull into a passing place and wait if needed.
Sand & Ash Storms
Volcanic sand reduces visibility to near zero and strips paint. Common in the south near active volcanic zones.
Limited Daylight
Only 4-5 hours of daylight in December. Plan driving around available light. Summer has 24-hour daylight.
🚨 Emergency Situations
Iceland Emergency — Call 112
Breakdown / Accident
- Call 112 immediately — works everywhere in Iceland
- Share your location via the 112 Iceland app
- Stay with your vehicle unless in immediate danger
- Make yourself visible — hazard lights, reflective gear
- Call your rental company after emergency services
Bad Weather
- Don't continue driving in dangerous conditions
- Find nearest accommodation and wait it out
- Keep emergency supplies in car at all times
- Tell someone your route and expected arrival time
🅿️ Parking and Urban Driving
🏙️ Reykjavík Parking
- Paid zones: P1 (150 ISK/hour), P2 (125 ISK/hour), P3 (100 ISK/hour)
- Pay by: Parka app, SMS, or parking meters
- Free parking: Sundays and after 18:00 weekdays
- Max stay: Usually 2-4 hours in city center
- Fines: 8,000 ISK (~$60) for violations
🏔️ Tourist Site Parking
- Most attractions: Free parking
- Popular sites: Can fill up quickly in summer
- Geysir, Gullfoss: Large parking areas
- Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss: Can get crowded
- Blue Lagoon: Paid parking included in entrance
📋 Legal Requirements and Insurance
🆔 Driver Requirements
- Minimum age: 20 for cars, 23 for larger vehicles
- License: Valid license from home country + International Driving Permit
- License validity: Must be valid for at least 1 year
- Age restrictions: Some rental companies require 25+ for certain vehicles
🛡️ Insurance Reality
Why Locals Always Take Full Insurance
Iceland's roads are harsh. Gravel chips windshields, wind tears off doors, and ash storms sandblast paint. The repair costs are massive.
- CDW (Collision Damage Waiver): Basic coverage, high deductible
- SCDW (Super CDW): Reduces deductible significantly
- Gravel protection: Essential for gravel roads
- Sand/ash protection: Needed near active volcanoes
- Theft protection: Less critical in Iceland
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
When do the F-roads open in Iceland?
+Iceland's F-roads typically open between early June and early July, depending on the specific road and snow conditions. F550 Kaldidalur usually opens first in early June. F35 Kjölur and F208/F225 to Landmannalaugar open in late June. F26 Sprengisandur and F88 to Askja open last, often not until early July. Opening dates shift every year based on weather, so always check road.is for current status before planning any highland drive.
Do I need a 4WD for the Ring Road?
+No, a 2WD car is sufficient for Iceland's Ring Road (Route 1) in summer. The entire route is paved. However, a 4WD is strongly recommended for winter driving (October through April) due to ice, snow, and mountain passes. Every rental company in Iceland requires a 4WD for F-roads (highland roads) — take a 2WD on an F-road and your insurance is void.
Which F-road is easiest for beginners?
+F550 Kaldidalur is the easiest F-road in Iceland. It has no river crossings, is only 37 km long, and runs between Þingvellir and Húsafell through a scenic valley between two glaciers. F35 Kjölur is also beginner-friendly — it is a well-maintained gravel highway with no river fords required, running 170 km through the central highlands with a hot spring stop at Hveravellir.
Is rental car insurance worth it in Iceland?
+Yes, insurance is strongly recommended for driving in Iceland. Gravel roads chip windshields, volcanic ash sandblasts paint, and strong winds can damage doors. At minimum, get CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) and gravel protection. SCDW (Super CDW) significantly reduces your deductible. Sand and ash protection is essential if driving near active volcanic areas in southern Iceland.
What is the speed limit on Iceland's roads?
+Speed limits in Iceland are: 30 km/h in school zones, 50 km/h in urban areas, 80 km/h on gravel roads, and 90 km/h on paved rural roads. Speed cameras are common and fines range from 20,000 to 70,000 ISK (approximately $150-500 USD). Locals typically drive at or below the posted limits.
Can I drive to Landmannalaugar in a regular car?
+No. Landmannalaugar is accessed via F-roads (F208 or F225), which every rental company in Iceland restricts to 4WD vehicles. Take a 2WD on an F-road and your rental insurance is void — you pay for all damage. The route also involves river crossings, and no rental insurance in Iceland covers water damage at all. If you don't have a 4WD, take a highland bus from Reykjavík instead — Trex and Reykjavík Excursions both run daily services in summer.
How do I check current road conditions in Iceland?
+Check road.is for live road conditions and closures — it is the official Icelandic Road Administration website with a color-coded map showing every road in the country. For weather, check vedur.is (Icelandic Met Office). Call 1777 for road information in English. Download the 112 Iceland app for emergency location sharing and the SafeTravel app for weather alerts.
