Iceland in May - Puffins, Midnight Sun & Peak Waterfalls

May is when Iceland's daylight becomes truly extraordinary. At the start of the month, you get about 18 hours of light. By May 31, that stretches to nearly 21 hours, with the sky never fully darkening -- just a golden twilight around midnight. This near-midnight sun effect means you can hike, drive, and explore well into the evening without needing a headlamp. It also means your body clock may struggle with sleep, so bring an eye mask.

Temperatures range from 4 to 9 degrees Celsius in Reykjavik and the south coast, with the north typically 2-3 degrees cooler. Snow is rare in lowland areas but still possible in the north and at elevation. Rain is frequent but usually light and intermittent. Wind remains a constant factor -- the Icelandic saying "if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes" applies fully in May. On the best days, though, May offers some of the most beautiful weather of the year -- crisp air, blue skies, and fresh green landscapes.

May is the month when puffin watching becomes reliable. By mid-May, millions of Atlantic puffins have settled into their nesting burrows along Iceland's sea cliffs. The best viewing locations are the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar), home to the world's largest Atlantic puffin colony with an estimated 8-10 million birds. Boat tours from the islands bring you within meters of the cliffs where puffins congregate in staggering numbers.

Other excellent puffin sites include Latrabjarg in the Westfjords -- Europe's largest bird cliff where puffins are remarkably tame and approachable -- and Borgarfjordur Eystri in east Iceland, where a viewing platform lets you watch puffins at eye level. Dyrholaey near Vik on the south coast is the most accessible site from Reykjavik, though it closes periodically during nesting season to protect the birds.

May is when Iceland's waterfalls reach their absolute peak volume. The highland snowpack melts rapidly in the warming temperatures, feeding glacial rivers and cascades to their maximum flow. Dettifoss in north Iceland -- Europe's most powerful waterfall -- is at its most thunderous. Gullfoss on the Golden Circle becomes a wall of churning white water. Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss on the south coast are both magnificent, with the path behind Seljalandsfoss typically open by May (bring a rain jacket -- you will get soaked).

Whale watching season kicks into gear in May. Husavik in north Iceland -- the whale watching capital of Europe -- begins running daily tours, with sighting rates climbing above 90 percent. Humpback whales, minke whales, white-beaked dolphins, and harbor porpoises are all regularly spotted. Reykjavik harbor also offers whale watching tours, though Husavik tends to have higher success rates and closer encounters. May is early enough in the season that boat tours are not yet fully booked, so you can often book just a day or two ahead.

May brings the first flush of wildflowers to Iceland. Arctic thyme, buttercups, and moss campion begin blooming across lowland meadows and lava fields. The Alaskan lupin -- introduced to combat soil erosion and now covering vast areas -- starts its dramatic purple bloom in late May, turning entire hillsides and roadsides into carpets of violet. While the lupin is controversial among Icelanders (it is an invasive species that crowds out native plants), the visual effect is undeniably stunning and makes for remarkable photography.

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula is exceptional in May. The mix of snow-dusted Snaefellsjokull glacier, green coastal meadows, dramatic sea cliffs, and black lava beaches creates a concentrated version of everything Iceland offers. Kirkjufell -- Iceland's most photographed mountain -- looks stunning against the spring landscape. The peninsula's charming fishing villages like Stykkisholmur and Arnarstapi are lively but not yet overwhelmed by summer tourists. Drive the full loop in a day or stay overnight to enjoy the near-midnight twilight from the coast.

May offers excellent hiking conditions for lowland and coastal trails. The Fimmvorduhals pass between Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull glaciers begins to become accessible in late May, though snow patches may remain. The Skogafoss staircase trail is a manageable day hike with spectacular views. Esja, the mountain overlooking Reykjavik, is usually snow-free. The Reykjadalur hot river hike near Hveragerdi is at its best -- drier than April and less crowded than summer.

Soaking in a hot spring under a bright midnight sky is a uniquely May experience. The Blue Lagoon and Myvatn Nature Baths are less crowded than in summer. For a more adventurous soak, the wild hot springs scattered across Iceland offer free, natural bathing. Seljavallalaug -- a semi-abandoned pool near Seljalandsfoss -- feels magical in the extended twilight.

The landscape in May sits at the tipping point between spring and summer. Lowland areas are lush and green, but mountains still wear snow, creating vivid contrasts. Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon is active with icebergs calving from Breidamerkurjokull -- the mix of floating ice and bright spring sky is extraordinary. Diamond Beach is accessible and less crowded than in summer. Birdlife is at its most active: Arctic terns fiercely defend nesting territory, great skuas and fulmars crowd sea cliffs, and golden plovers call from the meadows. The Westfjords are particularly rich birding destinations.

May pricing is typically 20-30 percent lower than July but rising as the month progresses. A compact rental car costs around 10,000-15,000 ISK per day (70-105 USD). Mid-range Reykjavik accommodation runs 18,000-35,000 ISK per night. Flights from Europe average 120-250 euros round-trip, from North America 400-600 USD. Book two to three months ahead, especially for late May. Book the Westman Islands ferry in advance for puffins.

Route 1 is fully accessible with generally good conditions. Highland F-roads remain closed until mid-to-late June. A 2WD is sufficient for the Ring Road and south coast; consider a 4WD for the Westfjords or northern gravel roads. Be aware that sheep are released from farms in late May and wander onto roads -- drive carefully on rural routes. Check our driving guide and road.is daily.

Bring a quality eye mask -- Icelandic hotel curtains rarely block all the light. The upside is extraordinary: you can start a hike at 9 PM and still have hours of golden-hour light. Use the extended daylight to visit popular sites in the evening when day-trippers have returned to Reykjavik.

Day 1: Arrive & Golden Circle. Pick up your rental car at Keflavik and drive the Golden Circle: Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss at peak spring flow. The long daylight means you can arrive on a midday flight and complete the full circuit. Overnight near Selfoss or Geysir.

Day 2: South Coast to Vik. Drive the south coast. Stop at Seljalandsfoss (walk behind the falls), Skogafoss, and the Solheimajokull glacier viewpoint. Continue to Reynisfjara black sand beach and Dyrholaey headland -- check for puffins on the cliffs. Overnight in Vik.

Day 3: Jokulsarlon & Glacier Lagoon. Drive east to Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach. Take a boat tour among the icebergs. Hike to Svartifoss waterfall in Skaftafell (about 1.5 hours round-trip). Return to Vik or continue east.

Day 4: Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Head north to photograph Kirkjufell, explore Arnarstapi and Hellnar coastal trails, and visit the black church at Budir. Drive to Stykkisholmur for dinner with a harbor view. Return to Reykjavik in the late-evening twilight.

Day 5: Reykjavik & Departure. Explore Reykjavik -- Hallgrimskirkja, Harpa, the Old Harbour, Laugavegur. Visit a geothermal pool (Vesturbaejarlaug is a favorite). Stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport if timing allows.

• Near-midnight sun -- 18-21 hours of daylight for exploring
• Puffins nesting -- reliable viewing from mid-May onward
• Peak waterfall flow -- snowmelt creates the most powerful cascades
• Wildflowers blooming -- lupins, Arctic thyme, and buttercups
• Pre-summer prices -- 20-30% cheaper than peak July rates
• Whale watching begins -- humpbacks and minkes in Husavik
• Manageable crowds -- busy but not overwhelmed

• No northern lights -- nights are too bright for aurora
• Highland roads still closed -- F-roads do not open until late June
• Sleep disruption -- near-constant daylight can affect rest
• Variable weather -- rain and wind are common
• Prices climbing -- not as cheap as winter or early spring
• Some highland hikes inaccessible -- Landmannalaugar and Askja still closed

May is one of the best months to visit Iceland, and many experienced travelers call it the country's best-kept secret. You get nearly endless daylight (18-21 hours), puffins at their nesting colonies, waterfalls at their most powerful, wildflowers beginning to bloom, and whale watching starting up -- all at prices below summer peak. The only significant downsides are closed Highland roads and no northern lights.

Yes -- by mid-May, puffins are reliably present at their nesting colonies across Iceland. The Westman Islands offer the largest colony and best boat tours. Latrabjarg in the Westfjords allows you to get remarkably close to the birds. Borgarfjordur Eystri in east Iceland has an excellent viewing platform. Dyrholaey near Vik is the most accessible from Reykjavik. Early May sightings are possible but less reliable; aim for mid-May onward for the best experience.

May temperatures range from 4 to 9 degrees Celsius in Reykjavik and the south coast, with the north a few degrees cooler. The weather is milder and more settled than April but still changeable -- you can get sunshine, rain, and wind in the same day. Snow is rare at sea level but possible at higher elevations. Waterproof layers, a warm mid-layer, and windproof outerwear are essential. The best May days feel genuinely pleasant and spring-like.

No. Highland F-roads are closed throughout May. The ground is still thawing and too fragile for vehicle traffic, and snow covers most highland routes. F-roads typically open between mid-June and early July, depending on conditions. In May, stick to Route 1, coastal roads, and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Check road.is for the latest status. If you specifically want to visit Landmannalaugar, the Askja caldera, or Thorsmork, plan your trip for late June or later.

Not the true midnight sun, but very close. By late May, the sun sets for barely an hour and the sky stays bright all night -- a luminous twilight rather than full darkness. The effect is dramatic enough that you can hike, drive, and photograph well past midnight. True 24-hour daylight -- where the sun does not set at all -- begins around June 1 in northern Iceland and peaks at the summer solstice on June 21. If the full midnight sun experience is important to you, visit in June.